A city best seen before eight in the morning

Jaipur in the shoulder season is a different city. The light between six and eight is worth the alarm, and the walled city belongs to the people who live in it rather than to the queue outside the palace.

We built the days backwards — early mornings on foot, the middle of the day indoors, and evenings on rooftops as the pink sandstone did what it is famous for.

The stays here range from restored havelis to genuinely exceptional heritage hotels. It is one of the few destinations where the accommodation is a legitimate reason to go.